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Egr Video

How To Clean an EGR Valve Without Removing It

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Eine wirkliche Handlungsempfehlung kann derzeit niemand geben. Dies gilt vor allem für schwerere Fahrzeuge. Es werden alle gleich behandelt! Erklärvideos auf Youtube Man kann ja nicht alles wissen. Alles wird immer mehr, mehr da mehr dort mehr arbeiten mehr Zeit und das Geld bleibt so wie es ist!!! Arbeitszeit wird geboten Coaching wird geboten Parkplatz wird geboten gute Verkehrsanbindung wird geboten Mitarbeiterrabatte wird geboten Mitarbeiterhandy wird geboten Mitarbeiterevents wird geboten.

I keep getting a P code saying catalyst efficiency below threshold at bank 1. So i put a new converter on still same code.

New 02 sensors new thermostat new radiator hoses and all, could this be my EGR going bad? I'm not losing water so it's not the head gasket or water pump.

The first cylinder piston broke into a few pieces and also bent and broke the connecting rod. There is no evidence in the cylinder to show why this took place.

Brought it back to the mechanic and he said that his diagnostic was telling him that something was wrong with the egr valve. I'm starting to think that this was the problem all along and I spent money for nothing.

I don't know what to do. After reading all these comments. I know that my car has lost power and before I spent the two grand my car was also revving low and wanting to stall.

Does anyone have a clue, because I'm tired of mechanics telling me it's one thing and it's not. Recently, spark plugs changed and engine light on went off.

Had a diagnostic done and it said the EGR flow is bad, but it runs great. Should I replace or clean out the EGR valve? Please suggest what should I do now?

Replace the EGR valve or leave it like this? After some power loss and very rough idling I noticed that the egr transducer was melted.

I replaced the egr assembly and it worked for about five days. I looked and the transducer is again melted. Any idea why it would do that and how do i fix it?

It has been serviced well and I am the 2nd owner. However, for the past six months, the vehicle has had the check engine light on and the codes came back and needing to oxygen sensors and a problem with the EGR.

I had the EGR valve cleaned, not replaced, and the vehicle is still not running at its optimum. It hesitates as if it is not getting enough gas and is sluggish at take off.

The vehicle has just been tuned up. Before I spend any more money, I would like to know if the EGR is more than one component and how do I know which component is bad?

It has been well taken care of and detailed every year. The fuel filter has been changed 2, miles ago. The problem I now have is that the engine will not start after driving for a while, upon having made one or two stops for a short period of time for shopping.

This has happened four times over the past few months. Last night the same thing happened. I drove the truck for about a half hour, turned it off for about 15 minutes and then it would not start.

Whenever this happens, it finally starts after a period of about one hour waiting, and all is back to normal.

I would be glad to replace the EGR valve myself, it is not that difficult, but before I spend that sum of money do you think it may be the problem or is it more complex having to to with computers and the electrical system?

The engine light has been on for a while--no problems, just 'running lean'. I changed the EGR valve, turned off the engine light, but it came on again.

What should I do now? I replaced that thing like three times now and now my car is starting to stall and make a bad metal grinding and rattling noise when I start it up.

I have a valve knock. I'm wondering if my engine is starting to go out on me. If anyone has any thoughts or even answers then please help. It sounds as if your egr port plugs are clogged with carbon.

By removing the plugs from the intake manifold not easy and cleaning out the plugged holes of carbon buildup and putting in new plugs will resolve this problem!

This particular problem appears out of nowhere one day. It appears when you are shifting from a stand still at a light from first to second to third gear, under RPMs.

Usually, letting off the gas and then feathering the gas returns it to normal operating condition, but it will repeat once in a while out of the blue.

The intake manifold has EGR plugs in them. My Honda accord four-cylinder it has four front and two rear plugs in the intake manifold.

The plugs themselves cost pennies each from your dealer. Some parts may have to be removed to gain access meaning a few more dollars for new gaskets depending on vehicle model.

Remember after you have assembled all, anything left inside gets sucked into the head, so be patient and through, and buy lots of extra plugs they are only pennies in case you lose some.

Doing yourself takes time if you are careful. Tools are not too expensive, and parts are very cheap. But a quote from my dealer was dollars stating each mechanic has their own special tricks to doing this.

I hope this helps. Before doing this I changed my fuel filter, plugs and wires, distributor cap and rotor, main relay, the EGR valve itself, etc.

I finally found some threads online and changed these plugs and problem hasn't returned yet. Hope this helps some of you and saves you some money.

Thutch view entire post anon Post 61 i have a renault scenic. I'm having problems with my egr valve. Denise Tucker Post 60 i have an 89 chevy s Well, i was told it might be the egr valve so i changed it and now when i start it it dies unless i give it gas.

When it does say running though, it's idled way low and putters but then smooths out. When i drive it doesn't have any power like before.

The engine light isn't on and hasn't come on since i replaced it. So I'm lost now. Please can someone help me? But your description is exactly what my car has been doing since I had it.

I bought it back in Anyway, it when I was at at light or idle, it seems like the car would always act like it wanted to cut off, almost like a coughing and then rev itself back up.

But it never cut off. In the last couple weeks, it's been jerking when I barely tap the gas, and it jerks after I start it and shift into gear.

This morning, the light comes on, I take it to get checked and they say the EGR sensor. Now after reading these posts, it seems the EGR could be considered as more than 1 component, meaning valve vs sensor.

By the way, the mechanic reset my light, but I know I need to get this resolved, because they told me it could lead to other issues.

Also, you can sometimes force carbon out of the valve by moving the valve mechanism up and down with a screwdriver while applying carb cleaner. I got it plugged up on small portable device that read out codes, and it said my egr valve is the mean problem.

The problem that the egr valve is causing is while I am driving, it completely cuts off at times and take about 10 or 15 minutes to start back up.

At first, it used to cut off after I had been driving for a while and the rpms get low, causing it to cut off if i didn't keep the rpm up, which I did by avoiding stop signs and or staying on highways.

Now the problems have increased. Could you be so kind to tell me what I should do to solve the problem. It still stalled, so I took it to Nissan and found out was a gas problem I was using E Ethanol gas in my car which Nissan told me to fuel with gas not having Ethanol gas, so I found gas at a boat marina which did not have Ethanol.

And my car is running good now, no more stalling and I got my 41 mpgs back, from the 29 it was doing. So I think some of the problems on this board is due to the use of ethanol in gasoline.

I've done a tune up plugs, wires, cap, rotor, oil, transmission fluid, etc. Runs fine cold; but, when warm, stumbles above RPM.

Check engine light flashes, then I lose two cylinders until I shut down and restart. Tried new coils, plugs- now what?

Fault codes don't pinpoint anything. It starts up every morning fine and dandy with fast idle as it is still frosty here and I can cruise around town mph for about let's say eight miles.

As the engine temp is approaching the normal range, the car idle speed is kicking down. It gets to the point where when I approach a stop, I must have one foot on the brake and the other feathering the gas pedal to keep the revs up.

If it does die, I have to wait at least 20 minutes before I can restart the vehicle. Battery is good, plugs changed 12 months ago, air cleaner is clean, and fuel filter is OK.

The vehicle does not burn oil, and this problem slowly started several months back. Dumb here as to that info at this moment.

Perhaps someone would know where I should start in trying to fix this thing. Higher combustion chamber temperatures. Serious engine damage will occur eventually.

I have seen it. A hole burned right through the side of piston. Replaced engine, test drove, egr code, customer: That's check engine light has been on forever!

The smog tech said I was burning too much gas. I believe I need a egr vacuum solenoid. I hope that is it. The pressure coming through is so much that even with it clamped down it would still blow off the line, until it finally goes through the side.

Now I can't get more than rpms, and 20mph max. Any ideas about what might be causing this? What should I do to fix my problem? I just put a used transmission 80, miles two weeks ago Note: It ran fine shifted fine before with old transmission.

There were metal chunks in the pan so I changed it. It ran fine shifts great and it seems there is no metal or slug in pan.

Anyway here's my problem: Then it will start back up but leave the stop sluggish then once you get moving, it's fine till I have to stop again.

Now I have it home. I get in and start it and then put it in reverse and it runs fine. I already changed the neutral switch so that's out.

Could it be a sensor or something? I used all of my old sensors and solenoids from my old transmission.

Any help would be much appreciated. I took it up to autozone and they said that excessive flow is detected. I also have a cold air intake on my car, is it possible that the two have anything to do with each other?

In the morning when i put the car in reverse it will idle and shutter idle and shutter only when i have to AC on max and when i turn the air of if goes away when it idles.

Comments on what to replace? If I clean the EGR valve, will the computer in car be reset? In case I shut down the EGR valve, will the horsepower be higher than usual?

How can I shut down the EGR valve? In fact we just had an exhaust leak fixed, fuel filter changed and plugs and wires replaced. On the advise of two mechanics, we went ahead and changed the egr valve and the egr solenoid.

The original problem which is check engine light went off, then came on again both times. What else can be a potential problem?

Hope you can help! My friend is a very nice guy and that niceness can also be seen in the way he appreciates his vehicles! It starts to jerk when I am driving in slow traffic and when I am circling trying to find a parking space.

The mechanic cleaned the egr and check engine light went out but next day it came back on and the problem is still there.

My car struggles to idle and when i break the car dies and the battery light comes on. If i leave the car off for 20 minutes or so the car will turn back on but will die once i start to break.

We have been advised that it could be the EGR valve. Could it really be? It had been losing power and black smoke coming out of exhaust.

Got a mechanic to check it out. Can anyone answer this? I replaced fuel filter and it ran fine for about 10 miles then the same problem.

Since the EGR system recirculates a portion of exhaust gases, over time the valve can become clogged with carbon deposits that prevent it from operating properly.

Clogged EGR valves can sometimes be cleaned, but replacement is necessary if the valve is faulty. In modern diesel engines , the EGR gas is cooled with a heat exchanger to allow the introduction of a greater mass of recirculated gas.

Exhaust recirculated back into the cylinder can increase engine wear as carbon particulates wash past the rings and into the oil.

Since diesel engines are unthrottled, EGR does not lower throttling losses in the way that it does for SI engines. Exhaust gas—largely nitrogen, carbon dioxide , and water vapor—has a higher specific heat than air, so it still serves to lower peak combustion temperatures.

However, adding EGR to a diesel reduces the specific heat ratio of the combustion gases in the power stroke. This reduces the amount of power that can be extracted by the piston.

EGR also tends to reduce the amount of fuel burned in the power stroke. This is evident by the increase in particulate emissions that corresponds to an increase in EGR.

Particulate matter mainly carbon that is not burned in the power stroke is wasted energy. Stricter regulations on particulate matter PM call for further emission controls to be introduced to compensate for the PM emission increases caused by EGR.

The most common is a diesel particulate filter in the exhaust system which cleans the exhaust but causes a constant minor reduction in fuel efficiency due to the back pressure created.

The nitrogen dioxide component of NOx emissions is the primary oxidizer of the soot caught in the diesel particulate filter DPF at normal operating temperatures.

This process is known as passive regeneration. This necessitates periodic active regeneration of the DPF by burning diesel fuel in the oxidation catalyst in order to significantly increase exhaust gas temperatures through the DPF to the point where PM is quickly burned by the residual oxygen in the exhaust.

By feeding the lower oxygen exhaust gas into the intake, diesel EGR systems lower combustion temperature, reducing emissions of NOx.

This makes combustion less efficient, compromising economy and power. The normally "dry" intake system of a diesel engine is now subject to fouling from soot, unburned fuel and oil in the EGR bleed, which has little effect on airflow.

However, when combined with oil vapor from a PCV system, can cause buildup of sticky tar in the intake manifold and valves.

This can lead to exhaust gas recirculation to occur causing a rough idle even when the conditions are not desirable. The Check Engine Light can also be activated by a wide variety of other issues, so having the computer scanned for trouble codes is highly recommended.

The EGR valve is an important emissions component, especially for vehicles in states with strict emissions regulations.

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egr -

Gewinnt man oder schafft man nicht eine bestimmte - eigentlich eine übertrieben hohe - Anzahl an Neukunden bzw Bestandskunden und somit den Produktverkauf, so fliegt man wieder raus und man ist natürlich auch als Mensch nicht mehr interessant, dh deine zwei Mentoren und die für dich zuständige Gebietsleiterin weisen dich ab. Gleich am ersten Tag bekam ich einen merkwürdigen Mentor und Ausbildner, der schon mal sehr - persönlich - werden konnte, zugewiesen. Im Sommer wäre eine Klimaanlage super, aber durch die Ventilatoren geht es trotzdem. Mit einer pneumatischen Ansteuerung, wie sie früher üblich war, oder einer elektromagnetischen Betätigung ist man möglicherweise nicht schnell genug. Otherwise your message will be regarded as spam. Um die Abgasnormen zu erfüllen und gleichzeitig die Motorenleistung hoch zu halten, ist einiges an Produktentwicklung nötig. Ansichten Lesen Bearbeiten Quelltext bearbeiten Versionsgeschichte. Folgende Benefits wurden mir geboten flex. Kontakt Wir freuen uns über Ihre Anfrage. Pro Das Gute an der Geschichte? I own a Miata that has just started a rough idle after running for 3 to 4 minutes. This creates a variable vacuum signal that can regulate EGR operation very closely. Be careful not to touch the valve because it will be hot! It's running rough and very sluggish. Inspect the EGR valve itself. This test does not work on backpressure EGR valves. Usually you have to go a certain speed usually 55 mph or over then decelerate and the light should come hrvatska norveska rukomet because the car will notice the emissions aren't coming out the same. You may have a book of ra automat in one of the sensors for the emission control. Retrieved from " https: This can cause engine damage over time. While initial 1 bundesliga tipps from fleet managers appeared to praise the new technology egrsome users have complained of the increase in fuel consumption. The negative backpressure book of ra gametwist tricks of EGR valve reacts in the same way, except that it reacts to negative or decreasing pressure changes in the exhaust system to regulate EGR action. Non-consent will result in ComScore only processing obfuscated personal data. This has a quenching effect that lowers combustion temperatures and reduces the formation of NOx.

The timing may be overadvanced. If the timing is within specs, check the engine's operating temperature.

A cooling problem may be causing the engine to detonate. Be sure you've ruled out all the other possibilities before focusing on the EGR system.

Use a vacuum gauge to check the EGR valve vacuum supply hose for vacuum at rpm. There should be vacuum if the engine is at normal operating temperature.

No vacuum would indicate a problem such as a loose or misrouted hose, a blocked or inoperative ported vacuum switch or solenoid, or a faulty vacuum amplifier or vacuum pump in the case of a diesel engine.

Refer to a vacuum hose routing diagram in a service manual or the hose routing information on the vehicle's emission decal for the location of the solenoid.

If the solenoid fails to open when energized, jams shut or open, or fails to function because of a corroded electrical connection, loose wire, bad ground, or other electrical problem, it will obviously affect the operation of the EGR valve.

If bypassing the suspicious solenoid with a section of vacuum tubing causes the EGR valve to operate, find out why the solenoid isn't responding before you replace it.

The problem may be nothing more than a loose or corroded wiring connector. Inspect the EGR valve itself.

Because of the valve's location, it may be difficult to see whether or not the valve stem moves when the engine is revved to to rpm by slowing opening and closing the throttle.

The EGR valve stem should move if the valve is functioning correctly. A hand mirror may make it easier to watch the valve stem.

Be careful not to touch the valve because it will be hot! If the valve stem doesn't move when the engine is revved and the valve is receiving vacuum , there's probably something wrong with the EGR valve.

Vacuum should pull the valve open creating the equivalent of a large vacuum leak. This should cause a momentary drop in idle speed and a noticeable increase in idle roughness.

Backpressure type EGR valves are more difficult to check because there must be sufficient backpressure in the exhaust before the valve will open when vacuum is applied.

One trick that's sometimes used is to create an artificial restriction by inserting a large socket into the tailpipe, then applying vacuum to the valve to see if it opens.

Don't forget to remove the restriction afterwards. Remove and inspect the EGR valve if you suspect a problem. Most failures are caused by a rupture or leak in the valve diaphragm.

If the valve is not a backpressure type, it should hold vacuum when vacuum is applied with a hand-help pump. If it can't hold vacuum, it needs to be replaced.

This test does not work on backpressure EGR valves. Backpressure EGR valves sometimes fail if the hollow valve stem becomes clogged with carbon or debris.

This you can see for yourself. It's almost impossible to remove such a clog, so replace the EGR valve. Carbon accumulation around the base of the EGR valve can sometimes interfere with the opening or closing of the valve.

These can be removed by careful brushing or by soaking the tip of the valve in solvent. Do not soak the entire valve in solvent or allow solvent to get anywhere near the diaphragm.

The solvent will attack and ruin the diaphragm. Inspect the EGR passageway in the manifold for clogging. Use a pipe cleaner or small piece of wire to explore the opening for a blockage.

Sometimes you can dislodge material that's clogging the opening by carefully poking at it. Other times, it may be necessary to remove the manifold and have it professionally cleaned.

Also recommended is to clean the throttle body and intake manifold at the same time to remove varnish and carbon deposits. With so many variations from one vehicle application to the next in emission control systems and calibration, it is extremely important that you get the correct replacement EGR valve for the application.

Therefore, you may have to refer to the vehicle's VIN number as well as year, make, model and engine size when ordering a replacement EGR valve.

It may also be necessary to refer to the OEM part number on the old EGR valve if possible when ordering a replacement, so don't throw the old EGR valve away until you have the new one, have installed it and made sure it's working correctly.

Many aftermarket EGR valves are "consolidated" so fewer part numbers are necessary to cover a wider range of vehicle applications. Some of these valves use interchangeable restricters to alter their flow characteristics.

Using EGR in downsized, direct-injected gasoline engines can reduce pumping losses, improve combustion efficiency, improve knock tolerance and lessen the need for fuel enrichment [].

A potential non-NOx reducing application EGR for modern diesel engines is to combine it with other engine control measures to increase exhaust gas temperature and facilitate the regeneration of diesel particulate filters [].

In order to address these trade-offs in commercial diesel engine applications, engine manufacturers have had to simultaneously adopt a range of other technological changes such as:.

More than one technical route exists to meet a given NOx limit, and EGR can sometimes be used as one of several alternative technologies.

Commercial applications of EGR on diesel engines are summarized in the following table. On several occasions, small scale EGR applications occurred earlier than indicated in the table, typically driven by various voluntary incentive programs.

The introduction of EGR technology to diesel passenger cars in the s went almost unnoticed and was not considered a major breakthrough for several reasons.

Typical passenger car engines operate mostly at part load conditions where temperatures are relatively low. The wide scale launch of cooled EGR on heavy-duty engines that attracted a lot of attention to the technology took place in late in the North American market.

High pressure loop cooled EGR was the most expedient in-cylinder NOx reduction technology that could achieve this emission level [].

There was a considerable apprehension in the field regarding the performance, fuel economy, and the durability of these new engines.

While initial statements from fleet managers appeared to praise the new technology [] , some users have complained of the increase in fuel consumption.

For EPA , the 0. Navistar—the only manufacturer to temporarily use EGR without aftertreatment for EPA —was able to do so only by certifying engines to 0.

However, the use of EGR was often minimized and in some cases, restricted to certain low load conditions with no EGR used at higher load operating conditions such as highway cruise.

This necessitates periodic active regeneration of the DPF by burning diesel fuel in the oxidation catalyst in order to significantly increase exhaust gas temperatures through the DPF to the point where PM is quickly burned by the residual oxygen in the exhaust.

By feeding the lower oxygen exhaust gas into the intake, diesel EGR systems lower combustion temperature, reducing emissions of NOx.

This makes combustion less efficient, compromising economy and power. The normally "dry" intake system of a diesel engine is now subject to fouling from soot, unburned fuel and oil in the EGR bleed, which has little effect on airflow.

However, when combined with oil vapor from a PCV system, can cause buildup of sticky tar in the intake manifold and valves. It can also cause problems with components such as swirl flaps , where fitted.

Diesel EGR also increases soot production, though this was masked in the US by the simultaneous introduction of diesel particulate filters.

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. This article needs additional citations for verification. Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources.

Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. March Learn how and when to remove this template message. This section needs additional citations for verification.

August Learn how and when to remove this template message. Retrieved 22 March The efficiencies of the methanol-fueled engine obtained with EGR are higher to those obtained with throttled stoichiometric operation.

Retrieved 26 September In internally funded research, they determined that EGR can improve the fuel consumption of both direct-injected and port-injected gasoline engines by reducing pumping losses, mitigating knock, cooling the exhaust and eliminating the need for fuel enrichment.

Retrieved from " https: Engine technology Chemical process engineering Air pollution control systems NOx control.

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Author Since: Oct 02, 2012